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JAPAN DENIM Book : BURGUS PLUS feature translation

CLUTCH Magazine Denim

Pursuing usability leads to an evolution of basic.

“What I’m aiming for is the ultimate basic,” explains Osamu Taniguchi, director of Burgus Plus, an umbrella brand of Hinoya, which was a driving force in the rise of the Ameyoko neighborhood in Tokyo after World War II. In today’s fashion world, where there are so many successful denim brands striving, Burgus Plus may appear to be somewhat low-key. However, since Taniguchi joined the brand in 2009, Burgus Plus has consistently grown to become of the Japan’s leading denim brands.
The manufacturing process of Burgus Plus begins with paying respect to the 5-pocket style. “That’s a premise that I don’t want to break,” he states.

Creating an original style of denim is all about what kind of challenges you can attempt in a pre-determined platform. After many rounds of trial and error, Burgus Plus launched their premium natural indigo series in 2012. Using natural indigo for the dye and the highest quality fabrics and parts, the series embodied the brand’s spirit of always putting quality first over anything. So what exactly makes Burgus Plus original? “We always pay respect to vintage styles, but by pursuing usability, we can continue to transform the meaning of basic.” Taniguchi gives the “hidden rivets”, a popular vintage detail, as an example. “For denim fans, this detail is a given, but I had my doubts. Does this really reinforce the denim? Wouldn’t inserting a cushioning material between the rivets provide more support?” It was this kind of thinking that led to his idea of inserting horse leather between the rivets on the hip pockets. “It strengthens the brand icon, and by washing it, the leather becomes smoother and rounder and better blends in with the denim.” Even if users don’t know every detail, they will subconsciously feel the denim fitting better the longer they wear them. And that is where we found one of the answers to what makes up the originality of Burgus Plus.

Burgus Plus’ 5-pocket denim comes in three different silhouettes, the 928, 955, and the 968. The number represent significant dates related Hinoya, their umbrella brand. 1928 was the year Hinoya was founded, 1955 was the year they moved to Ameyoko, and 1968 was the year the company was established. All three models were also designed with the style of times when the Levi’s 501 model was introduced as well. By naming the models after the year, it is their way or paying respect to the original model. The most standard model is the 955, which as you may have guessed, signifies the year 1955, when the 501XX 55 model was released.

*This article was previouly featured in JAPAN DENIM book.



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